Went with a dirt simple shape for this one, it hasn’t even got shoulder seams. Many do, but not all, and I didn’t want the seams interfering with the (very simple) embroidery:

It is based of this one, which is late 16th century but Spanish. Again, a very simple shape. As you can see I’ve altered the neckline slightly, as the Italian ones tend to have a V-shaped neckline, especially mid-century.

I’ve also left it completely open in front, I will add ties to fasten it, but that leaves me the option of opening it very wide. Paintings show them either way, if closed the lace goes all the way around the edge of the neckline and sticks up over the chemise lace.

The collar is tightly gathered, which gives it stiffness not requiring starch. You can smock it prettily on the inside and/or the outside, I figured decorative stitching would just distract, so I’ve got white linen smocking just to hold the pleats on the inner neck. I applied the lace before gathering, so it would be gathered too, but the lace going down the front of the collar and neck will be flat.

Today I’ve soaked off the stabilizer so the partlet is hanging to dry while I finish making the lace. The lace is bobbin lace from Le Pompe Opera Nova 1557 I picked it because it has a pattern that I thought matched the stars, it’s very pointy.

I’ve made seven feet of lace so far, it’ll probably take about ten to finish all the edges.